Welcome to Sri Lanka, the really special faraway place that has just about everything you want in a country in which you’ll be spending two or three weeks: beautiful beaches, rolling hills covered in tea plantations, lush rainforests and ancient ruins; no fewer than eight UNESCO World Heritage sites; national parks with elephants, leopards and many exotic bird species; a marvelous cuisine with lots of flavors and spices (think curry, cardamom, ginger, cinnamon); and swimming, whale-watching, hiking, exploring.
And the best thing is that flying there and back isn’t expensive at all – and being there is downright cheap. If you’re traveling on a budget, this could be your Shangri-La.
Okay, having said that, I have to add that being there is not the seamless experience we all want in life. The tap water is not safe to drink – so ice cubes aren’t safe either, unless they were made with bottled water. There are also mosquitoes and the illnesses they sometimes cause to worry about and some medical precautions to take before you leave, such as vaccinations for hepatitis A and typhoid, and some others, depending on where you plan to go in the country.
All that makes for a few petty inconveniences compared to the many pleasures the country offers the well-prepared traveler.
When to Go There
It depends on where in the country you want to spend most of your time. On the other hand, Sri Lanka isn’t that big and getting around is cheap so that you could actually see most of it, if you take the time. But:
December to March is the high season with clear skies and warm temperatures. That’s why it’s also the peak season, which means higher prices and more tourists. But if you want to visit the South Coast and its great beaches, that’s when you’ll want to be there.
If you’re interested in exploring the North and East coasts, you’ll want to go there between April and September – keeping in mind that the monsoons will hit every region in the country during the summer.
More specifically, Sri Lanka has two distinct monsoon seasons: the Maha monsoons (October to January), which affect the northern and eastern regions, and the Yala monsoons (May to August), which rain on the south and west.
And – sigh! – there is also an inter-monsoon season in October and November, when the weather is a mix of sunshine and showers. More specifically: the best months for the beaches are January to April and mid-July to September for the marvelous South Coast beaches and May to September for the beaches on the East Coast.
To check out the country’s astonishing wildlife in a national park, remember that May to December is a good time to go because during the dry season animals congregate around water sources, making them easier to spot. May and June provide the best overall experience considering weather, crowds and wildlife sightings.
More specifically, Wilpattu National Park is a go every month except November and December; visit the Bundala National Park between December and April; Minneriya from July to September and Kalpitiya from November to April. For the Yala and Udawalawe national parks, May to December is good. Yala is also a good option in February and March.
How to Get There
First of all, you’ll be happy to hear that return flights to the Sri Lankan capital Colombo cost about €525–560! And if you reserve early enough, you can probably book both flights with only one stopover and keep the time you spend in the air, coming and going, to about 25 hours, depending on your city of departure.
The problem is Colombo, which is not very interesting except as a way to get a first feel of the country, to hear the language spoken and your first taste of the wonderful Sri Lankan cuisine. And you’ll probably want to rest after your flight and get used to the climate.
If you’re primarily doing the beaches, Colombo is perfectly located. In fact, it’s very close to the city to Negombo and its popular beach, which might be a better option for dealing with your jet lag (see just below).
How to Get Around
A taxi from the Colombo airport to Negombo will cost you around €15 and take about 15 minutes. It’s not the greatest beach, and may be crowded with other travelers who also decided to give the capital the cold shoulder. But it’s a beach. So . . .
But you’re not going to take many taxis in Sri Lanka because there are other, less expensive options, the most budget-friendly of which is the bus. Buses are the most budget-friendly way to travel around Sri Lanka as they connect almost all towns and cities.
Buses run frequently on many routes, but they can be very crowded as drivers shoehorn passengers aboard, especially during peak hours or on popular routes. Also, roads can be very bouncy and some drivers will drive a bit recklessly. Crashes caused by rival bus drivers racing against each other are not rare. You have to book long-distance rides on the state-run SLTB buses. For private buses, just hop on at a bus stop.
Trains are another very budget-friendly option, and different classes of seating are available so you can balance budget and comfort. Most of the railway system has been upgraded so that traveling by train in Sri Lanka has become a comfortable, and sometimes even fast, way of getting around.
Also, some train routes take you past spectacular landscapes, such as the routes from Colombo to Kandy and Kandy to Ella. However, trains on these gorgeous routes may still use ancient carriages and travel only a little faster than molasses in winter. But that just gives you more time to ogle the landscape.
Tuk-tuks are a great – and fun – way to travel short distances, and they are numerous in tourist areas. Be prepared to negotiate the price with the driver, because they view tourists as cash cows – as they should. Just don’t overdo the haggling.
Taxis and hired private cars offer comfort and convenience, especially if you’ve got too much luggage. Taxis can be metered, or you can negotiate a price.
Pamper Your Budget by Eating
As I’ve already said, Sri Lanka is an inexpensive paradise. You can put a big smile on the face of your budget by staying in inexpensive hostels and guesthouses; traveling by bus, train or tuk-tuk; staying away from built-up holiday resorts; and buying your food from street vendors and/or eating in local restaurants or markets.
A few words of caution first.
- Choose street vendors carefully: Look for vendors with busy stalls, as this often indicates fresh, popular food.
- Observe food preparation: See if the vendor is using clean utensils, washing their hands and cooking food thoroughly.
- Avoid salads and uncooked items
- Always choose freshly cooked food, especially if it is cooked in front of you and is served hot.
- Drink bottled or boiled water: Avoid tap water and ice, and wash fruit with bottled water.
- Be aware of your surroundings: Consider the cleanliness of the area where the food is being prepared and served.
Sri Lanka’s Street & Other Food
The country’s most basic dish is rice with a variety of curries, such as vegetable, meat or seafood, and are often accompanied by other dishes like dahl, sambol (a spicy relish) and pickles.
Kottu roti is a popular street food with a savory and slightly spicy flavor. It is made from chopped roti (a flatbread), chicken, beef, or mutton, vegetables and spices, and is often served with scrambled eggs.
Hoppers are bowl-shaped pancakes made from fermented rice flour and coconut milk. They have crispy edges and soft centers, often containing an egg. They’re served for breakfast, lunch or dinner and are frequently enjoyed with curries, sambols or other side dishes.
Not to be confused with string hoppers, a popular breakfast dish made with thin rice noodles that are steamed and shaped into ‘nests’ and often served with pol sambol, a spicy coconut relish. .
If you like spicy, sweet, and savory pickles, then you have to try achcharu, which is made with vinegar, sugar, chili, and other spices. It can be served with rice and curry or as a side dish with various Sri Lankan dishes.
Vada (also spelled vadai or wade) is a tasty deep-fried snack – a kind of fritter or dumpling – made from lentils or other legumes. Parippu vada (or dhal vada) is probably the most popular variety. It is made with ground yellow split peas that are mixed with spices, onions and herbs, made into patties and then deep-fried.
Finally, lamprais is a traditional Sri Lankan dish made with rice and a variety of meat curries wrapped, baked and served in a banana leaf, which gives it a special flavor.
What NOT To Do
It’s important in Sri Lanka to be aware of and respect the country’s customs and traditions. So, to avoid alienating or, worse, insulting the locals, here are a few things you shouldn’t do..
When visiting the country’s beautiful temples, remember that they are places of worship. So it’s important to speak softly, avoid public displays of affection and never point the bottom of your feet toward religious icons or statues, which I guess just means that you shouldn’t lie on your back in front of a statue of the Buddha. Feet are considered dirty because they touch the ground, and everyone used to go around barefoot.
Also, dress modestly and always remove your shoes before entering. Women should carry a scarf or shawl to cover their shoulders, while men may need to wear long shorts or trousers. If it’s hot, bring a pair of dark socks because the floor tiles in the temples get hot.
This one you should know: Don’t take photos of the locals without their permission, especially in rural areas or at religious sites.
And speaking of photos, don’t take a selfie with a Buddha. In Sri Lanka, turning your back to a Buddha statue, even for a quick selfie, is considered highly disrespectful. Always face Buddha statues or icons directly and be aware of restrictions on taking photographs at temples or cultural sites. Some areas may even prohibit photographs entirely, so it’s important to check with someone in the know.
Here’s one I like: Don’t disparage cricket in any way by saying, for example, that you think it is boring or a silly way to spend five days I(even if you know that it’s true). Sri Lankans love their cricket and regard it as a big part of their identity. On the other hand, if you express curiosity or even interest in the sport, it could lead to some fascinating conversations.
Don’t bargain aggressively at a market or even with a taxi or tuk-tuk driver. Bargaining is common in Sri Lanka’s markets and it’s important to remain respectful and fair. Being friendly and good-natured may even result in a better deal and a fun experience.
A quarter of the Sri Lankans speak English as a second language, so you are likely to have some fascinating conversations if you remain respectful and polite. On the other hand, learning a few essential words or phrases in Sinhalese (ayubowanand = hello) and Tamil (nandri = thank you) will impress.
Finally (and again), don’t drink the water or use ice! Use bottled water and ice from purified water.
Finally . . .
I’ve intentionally omitted sites of interest because there are so many. You’ll have to choose them yourself. But, as long as we’re on the subject, I urge you to climb Sigiriya, for the frescoes, the rock art, the view from the top and the thing itself.
Also definitely visit the Yala National Park and/or Udawalawe National Park to see the elephants and other wild animals, the ancient cities of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa, the Dambulla Cave Temple (awesome!) and the Temple of the Tooth in the Royal Palace Complex in Kandy, to name just a few of the many must-see sites in the country.
Plan your trip well, inform yourself, get the necessary vaccinations, bring the necessaries, including lots of insect repellent. Pack sensibly and leave room in your suitcase for teas, spices and other souvenirs. Focus on lightweight, breathable clothing and versatile items that can be layered for the cooler highland areas. Try to stay in the country as long as your budget allows. There’s so much to see and do, and who knows when you’ll be back.