The word has more importance today in the travel industry because globalization is increasingly making places look alike and also making tourists look for the same pleasures wherever they go. It’s a kind of vicious cycle: Destinations see what draws tourists to other destinations and so try to provide similar services and attractions and come to resemble those destinations, while travelers will demand these same services and attractions elsewhere.
But Madagascar is truly unique (really!), and I can prove it: more than 90% of animals on Madagascar – including amphibians, reptiles and mammals – are unique to Madagascar. You won’t find them anywhere else. The reason is simple.
Once a part of an immense landmass known as Gondwana, it eventually became what it is today – the fourth-largest island in the world – about 75 million years ago, give or take a few million years. It became an environment in which animals evolved in isolation and became unique to Madagascar. Ergo the fossa, the panther chameleon, the Madagascar hissing cockroach and the wonderfully name aye-aye, to name just a few of the dozens of unique species on the island.
So if you’re interested in seeing unique animal species that will shift your conception of what nature is capable of producing, Madagascar is definitely the place to visit.
But of course there’s more:
- It’s a big island so it has lots of shoreline and therefore lots of beaches.
- It’s tourism infrastructure is only developed in parts of the island, so there is room for real adventure.
- If you don’t flinch at the price of getting there, traveling around Madagascar is surprisingly inexpensive, with plenty of budget and mid-range hotels available. (And if you want a luxury stay, well, that’s available too, of course.)
- In addition to unique animals, the island also has some way-out plants and trees as most of its indigenous fauna is also unique.
- The indigenous Malagasy people are also unusual and have a unique history, with a mix of cultures drawn from south-east Asia, India, Africa and the Middle East.
Convinced? I thought so. Read on.
Getting There
The good news is that if you’re traveling from Europe, a return flight ticket from just about anywhere to the capital Antananarivo (say it five times fast) will cost you between 700 and 900 euros, give or take. One-way flight time is about 15 hours, again depending on where you call home, so that’s also doable.
Best Time to Be There
It depends on what you want to do. First of all, remember that Madagascar is in the Southern Hemisphere, which means our winter is their summer. Second, January to March is the cyclone season, which means that some areas can be inaccessible after the storms, especially in the north of the country. In other words, don’t go there between January and March.
September to November are especially good for beach holidays, while the entire dry season is great for hiking and flora-and-fauna-seeing. For whale-watching, be there from July to September.
What You’ll Need
A passport, of course, which is valid for at least six months and has at least two clean visa pages. You’ll also need a scan of your return ticket and, no matter where you come from, a visa. Single-entry tourist visas for up to three months are available on arrival, or get them from a Madagascar embassy at home, or online. BUT: Entry requirements can change, so check at your local Madagascan embassy to make sure that the information is up to date.
Money
Mobile money is the best way to deal with paying and minimize nervousness. So, when you buy a local SIM card, you can activate mobile money in your settings and then load cash onto your phone at any of the many Telekom kiosks across the country. Then you can pay for things directly from your phone. It’s convenient and safe. So bring plenty of cash and then load it onto your mobile money account.
It’s also a good idea to have cash in its authentic form, and changed into the local currency, the ariary, just in case you are paying at a digital-free place. You can use your Visa or MasterCard at upscale restaurants, hotels and some tourist shops, but if you’re traveling on a budget you’ll need cash to pay (in whatever form).
NB: Don’t flash cash in public places. It’s not that Madagascar is dangerous, but there have been waves of pickpocketing and theft, especially on isolated roads and upscale resorts. Currently, as I said, the entire country is safe to visit, but inform yourself of possible risks at your embassy.
And Remember
Inform yourself: Madagascar is a heady mélange of peoples and cultures, each with their own etiquette and taboos. Read up on, or ask when your there, how not to offend, how to greet and what to wear, especially if you’re going off the beaten track. One rule is undeniable: Always ask if you can take a photograph (and never photograph local security personnel, but then why would you?).
How to Get Around
If you’re on a budget and want to get a deep immersion into local life, you’ll travel by bush taxis (taxi-brousses), the Madagascan version of the local bus. This is also a matter of temperament because you’ll need patience and flexibility to change your plans if required.
The taxi-brousses are Madagascar’s public transport system. They are in fact mini-buses packed inside and on top with people, produce and other cargo. They’re affordable but uncomfortable and, of course, schedules aren’t worth the paper they’re printed on. Expect delays. But they go everywhere and usually get there.
You can travel by plane. This is an especially attractive option if you’re traveling some distance, which will likely be the case now and then since Madagascar is very big. If you reserve ahead of time, it can also be affordable and therefore the best option.
There isn’t much of a rail system, but if you’re going from Fianarantsoa to Manakara, take the train. It’s an amazing trip because it passes through wonderful landscapes. But here too the schedule is no more than an unconfirmed rumor, but the scenery makes it worth the hassle.
Don’t rent a car. Most of the roads are bad or very bad. Or only rent if you know the roads are good and you get a good deal. Or if you absolutely have to have a 4×4 to get to where you really want to go.
Don’t hitchhike. Period.
Where to Go Swimming
Madagascar has all kinds of beaches, from luxurious resort beaches to beaches on islands you can only reach by boat or plane. On the mainland, ahm, the main island:
Anakao is a small fishing municipality on Saint-Augustin Bay, located on the southwest coast about 35 kilometers south of Toliara. It’s about 1,000 kilometers from Antananarivo, which means about 10 hours of flying time because there’s a lengthy stopover. So the best way to get there, if you’re going there, is gradually.
The reason it’s worth it is because the beaches are fine and not crowded, the accommodations are cheap and the seafood is excellent and cheap. The municipality actually consists of several fishing villages populated by very friendly people the Vezo, aka the Bajo (see “And Remember,” above).
If you’re into seafood, you might want to check out the very funky, very basic Chez Clovis in Anakao, where European lobster goes for the equivalent of about €5.50, and a whole fish will set you back €4!! But reserve because it’s small and popular.
I’ve heard good things about the Peter Pan hotel there, which has funky but comfortable “chalets” for €20/night for 2 people. It also has a beachfront restaurant serving both Italian and local dishes.
Way down on the southeast coast is the port of Fort-Dauphin (aka Tolanaro), which is just a long hop and a difficult jump from the spectacular and unspoilt Lokaro Beach. It’s well-known but far enough off the tourist mainstream to let you swim, snorkel or dive in peace – and if you dive, you’ll see a dazzlingly colorful array of fish showing off their scales. The flight from Antananarivo to Tolanaro takes about 2 hours and will set you back about €130.
There are plenty of restaurants and accommodations in Tolanaro, but most of the eateries have a definite French flavor and may be a little pricier – but not crazy expensive in the usual manner of French restaurants outside of France. The problem is that the town is about 25 kilometers from the beach, so you’ll need an off-road 4×4 to reach Lanirano Lake. You then take a boat to Lokaro Bay. Yeah, it’s an adventure.
Or you can rough it and stay at the aptly named Camp Pirates Lokaro, which is a stone’s throw from the beach and where one of the five bungalows available goes for about €25 and the price of a menu is €10. But try to reserve early – very early! – and make sure the place is still open. If it isn’t and if the prospect of trekking to the beach is too daunting, there are other beaches nearby – just not as wild and gorgeous as Lokaro.
As long as you’re down here, you may as well visit the Nahampoana Reserve, for its beauty and its many lemurs. An easy hop from Tolanaro.
If you just want to chill – and who can blame you? – fly to the laid-back Ile Sainte Marie (aka Nosy Boraha) and relax in the sun for a week or three. The island lies about 8 kilometers off the east coast of Madagascar and has endless palm-tree beaches and gorgeous blue bays surrounded by coral reefs. It is also lush and contains many animal species unique to the island.
The flight from Antananarivo takes about 1 hour and a return ticket costs in the neighborhood of €200. There are lots and lots of inexpensive places to stay on the island, in the range of €30-45. Reserve early and choose wisely. It’s a big island, so you’ll want to do a little research as to location or preferred beach, etc.
Restaurants offering fresh seafood are also cheap, with grilled fish going for about €4 and grilled zebu, the most commonly eaten meat in Madagascar, costing just a little more. They say that the zebu’s hump is the best piece of meat in the world. But then they would, wouldn’t they?
Flora-and-Fauna-Seeing (aka Hiking)
Since I’ve given all this hard stuff to do and see, here’s a wonderful place that is easy to get to and wonderful to see, the Andasibe-Mantadia National Park. You can make it your first thing to do after you arrive at Antananarivo. From the capital, it’s only about three hours by car over a paved highway. Most visitors hire a driver or book a tour, but if you’re on a budget, take a taxi-brousse to Andasibe village.
One big reason to go there is for the lemurs, one of the many species unique to Madagascar. At Andasibe-Mantadia you can see up to a dozen different lemur species, including the indri indri (not a typo!), the diademed sifaka and the mysterious aye-aye. There are dozens of reptile, amphibian and mammal species and over 100 bird species to see there – plus a wild array of plant species, including 120 types of orchids.
This rainforest park consists of two sections: the Analamazaotra Special Reserve (aka Andasibe) and the larger, more savage Mantadia section. The forest lies at an altitude of about 1,000 meters, so it’s usually misty and cool. And very humid. It rains a lot year-round, so the best time to visit might be September, when they hold the Indri Indri Festival.
NB: As with every national park in Madagascar, visits must be accompanied by a local guide. Also note that the Mantadia section is about 20 kilometers (12 miles) from Andasibe and accessible only by 4×4. If you’re staying at a local hotel, ask them to provide transport.
For something completely different, take a trip to the Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park. Because it’s so difficult to get there, I suggest you take a tour, either from the capital or from Morondava, the nearest large town. On your own, you’ll have to fly from Antananarivo to Morondava and then drive via 4×4 for about 12 hours and across two rivers.
Why go to the expense and/or hassle? Because Tsingy de Bemaraha is like nothing you have ever seen or will see again. It is a large expanse (about 1,600 sq. km.) consisting of knife-like limestone towers, some of them more than 100 meters tall. Think of an immense forest of white stone Sequoias.
It also has two sections Petit (Small) Tsingy, which is easier to trek through, and Grand (yes, Big) Tsingy, which is an adventure and a half during which you’ll have to squeeze through tight spaces, cross suspension bridges and scramble over rocks with the aid of ladders and cables. Fitness is required.
It’s clearly not for everybody, but if you’re fit and game it will make for a once-in-a-lifetime experience. For obvious reasons, the park is only open during the dry season. If you’re planning to trek both Tsingys, June to the end of October is the safest time.
Last Words
I’ve just barely scratched the surface of all the unique pleasures a few weeks in Madagascar can provide. There are dozens of great beaches and at least a dozen wonderful national parks and reserves to enjoy. Unless you’re just going for a beach holiday on Ile Sainte Marie or similar paradise, do the research, plan well ahead and be prepared to have your mind blown.
It won’t be as easy as, say, visiting Yucatan or Albania, but it is uniquely unique (to exercise my hyping chops) and well worth the inconvenience. I guarantee that you’ll return home with your vision, mind and heart expanded and the knowledge that there are places on Earth almost as exciting as a trip to Mars.