There are places in the world you never think about visiting just because they’re rarely talked about and/or your friends and family have never gone there. And then you go there and are enchanted and you wonder why you’d never thought of going there before.
I’m thinking of Verona, for example, which is overshadowed by nearby Venice, or Bordeaux, which competes with irresistible Paris, or Fes, which is often overlooked because of Marrakech. And then there is magical Dubrovnik, which is known as “the Pearl of the Adriatic” but is not, I think, near the top of many people’s bucket lists. Though it should be – and perhaps will be when it becomes known that this is where the blockbuster TV series Game of Thrones was filmed. (You can even go on a Game of Thrones tour, if that is your thing.)
More important, however, is the fact that Dubrovnik gives you two holidays for the price of one. It’s a beautiful old city with ancient walls and remarkable old buildings to ogle and it has, withing walking distance of its center, a gaggle of beaches. So you can combine a beach holiday with some serious sightseeing. Or, what the heck, just do the beaches.
So, yes, castles. And lots of sea – in this case, the Adriatic. And lots and lots of history, because (for example) the city was conquered by the Ottomans, Venice and Napoleonic France, to name just a few, and was, when free, a republic that abolished the slave trade in 1418, or nearly a half-century before it was banned in the United States.
I may have given the impression above that nobody visits the city. That’s clearly not the case. Many people find the combination of a beautiful old town, lovely beaches and perfect summer weather irresistible. About 1 million people visit the city every year, most of them in the summer, which makes for cheek-to-cheek crowds in the Old Town on occasion and long lines for some of the popular attractions.
It got so bad that the city imposed a visitor cap on the Old Town, barring entry when that number has been reached. So the first question you should ask yourself after deciding to visit the place is . . .
When Is the Best Time to Go There?
If you don’t mind the crowds or the higher prices, then summer is the time to go. The weather is spectacularly summery, with average temps of 25 to 30°C (77-86°F) and bright sun all day almost every day. But accommodations are generally twice as expensive in July as they are in, say, October. Which doesn’t mean that they are really expensive, because Croatia is still affordable, especially considering all it has to offer. It’s just more expensive.
The great thing about Dubrovnik is that it’s still warm in October, not as warms as July, but average high temps throughout the month are about 22° C (71.5° F). So can you go swimming in Dubrovnik in October? Yes, yes, yes – throughout the month, and sometimes even in the first week of November, given that the planet is getting warmer every year. There are almost no benefits from global warming, and its negatives outweigh its positives by a million tons, but why not take advantage of the few positives it offers?
So, fewer tourists, lower prices, good weather. Need I say more? The Adriatic takes longer to cool off than it does to warm up in the spring, so that the swimming season lasts long but starts late, at the end of May. If you want to visit the city just to see its many splendid sights and tour the islands around it, then there’s no problem. Choose whatever month is convenient, keeping in mind sunshine and prices.
How to Go There
It’s not as easy as it may seem if you go off-season. Getting there in summer is quite straightforward. Just make sure you get direct flights to and fro. In October, it gets a little tricky and you’ll have to search for a nonstop round trip or accept one stopover on the return flight. The trick is to reserve the flight as soon as possible.
In winter – sigh! – it gets really complicated and is another excellent reason not to travel to Dubrovnik between November and May. In October you may have to find a flight time–price compromise, depending as always on your priority. But there won’t be any long, two-stop flights, as in winter.
What to Eat
I’ll start with the food, rather than the sights, because the sightseeing-worthy sites in Dubrovnik are right in front of you as you walk around and because the food in Croatia is excellent. There are inexpensive restaurants in the city where you can have burgers, salads, pizza etc. and keep your budget spotless. But this is about Croatian food, because when we travel we don’t want a steady diet of more of the same foods we consume at home.
Pastries
Croatians eat pastries for breakfast or as snacks throughout the day. The burek is Turkish street food translated to the streets of Croatia. It’s made of flaky dough stuffed with different fillings, such as ground beef, cheese, spinach or cabbage and is available in most bakeries and streetside eateries.
Štrukli (pronounced shtrookli) is a sort-of strudel pastry that comes with a wide range of fillings, such as cottage cheese, apples or walnuts. It can be eaten for breakfast, as a light snack or as a dessert with sweet fillings and toppings.
Soparnik is a delicious pie made of thin sheets of dough filled with chard, onions and parsley. It kind of resembles the Greek spanakopita, but much thinner. The sweet version is filled with nuts, dried fruits or caramel.
Uštipci [Oosh-tipsy] is deep-fried dough and can be eaten plain, salty or sweet. You can eat it with cheese or ham on the side or you can top it with powdered sugar and/or jam for dessert.
Veggie Street Food
Corn on the cob is not exactly uniquely Croatian, but it’s popular there and available from street vendors and even on the beaches. Try it with a topping of Croatian olive oil, if available.
Roasted chestnuts are the street food of choice when they become available in autumn – usually from the same vendors that sold the corn in summer.
And if you’re looking for a “luxurious” street food, how about fresh truffles, or tartufi. They’re much cheaper than the French or Italian ‘gourmet’ offerings but just as aromatic and delicious.
Meaty Street Food
Češnjovka is a Croatian sausage made from pork and is a little spicy because it uses a lot of garlic (hence the Češnjo prefix). It’s usually served in a bun and always topped with local mustard.
The pulled pork sandwich is the Croatian version of a Sloppy Joe. If done right, the meat is marinated for at least 24 hours before cooking, slowly roasted for about 8 hours and served in a brioche bun with a barbecue sauce and red onions.
Ćevapi are the classic Balkan street dish and really delicious. They are a smaller version of kebab and made with beef, pork or veal. The meat is minced and seasoned with chopped onion and local herbs and spices. It’s usually served in a round flatbread with onions on the side.
Pljeskavica (good luck pronouncing that one) is a bigger, thicker, juicier beef patty than you are probably used to. It’s served in local somun bread and accompanied by salad, raw onions and tomatoes and a side of fries.
Seafood Street Food (say it fast 5 times)
I love seafood and I especially love small fish, such as sardines. smelts and anchovies, as a snack with local white wine or as a side dish with dinner and local white wine. In a coastal city like Dubrovnik, they are always totally fresh. They are grilled and seasoned with herbs, olive oil and lemon juice. My mouth is actually watering as I write these lines.
Buzara sauce is made from local wine, olive oil, garlic, fresh peppers and herbs and is used to cook seafood, especially mussels (dagnje na buzaru) and shrimp (škampi na buzaru; yup, that’s shrimp shcampi!)
Street Food Desserts
Oblatne is a kind of wafer that is either round or square and filled with jam, cream or Nutella.
Fritule is a small, sort of roundish fried pastry and is often sold at festivals or near beaches. They are usually topped with powdered sugar, but some places top them with chocolate sauce or caramel.
Kroštule is made from a light dough that is twisted into knots and fried until it becomes golden and crunchy. They are topped with cinnamon or powdered sugar.
Palačinke is basically a rolled-up crêpe filled with cream, Nutella or jam and topped with whipped cream. Calorie alert!
Where to Swim
There are a lot of wonderful beaches in and around Dubrovnik, so if swimming is a big priority, you’ll have a wealth of choices.
The best beaches are on the nearby Elaphite Islands or Lokrum Island, all of whjich have marvelous small bays. There are three Elaphite Islands:
- Koločep: secluded bays and sandy beaches; hiking trails along the coast; lovely panoramic views.
- Lopud: its Šunj beach is one of the most beautiful beaches on the Adriatic; other lovely beaches as well; charming village and medieval fortress.
- Šipan: traditional villages of Suđurađ and Šipanska Luka, with stone houses and ancient churches.
Lokrum: wonderful botanical gardens, with many exotic and Mediterranean plants; great, secluded beaches, especially in October; clear waters and wonderful snorkeling.
To get there: To visit the Elaphite Islands from Dubrovnik, there is a regular and inexpensive daily boat services from the port of Gruž. Purchase tickets online at jadrolinija.hr or on the spot. Choose one island for the day. It’s easier.
Boats for Lokrum leave every 30 minutes from the old port. The trip takes about 15 minutes. But there’s a catch (of course there is!): a ticket to Lokrum costs €27 per person. Ouch!
If you want to spend a few days or – and why not? – your entire vacation on one of the Elaphite Islands, there are hostels and guest houses which are relatively inexpensive. From there, you can make day trips to Dubrovnik and still enjoy an island holiday. But reserve well in advance.
Dubrovnik Beaches
Banje Beach is just a short walk from the Old Town and is a mix of pebbles and sand. It has a beach club and nearby restaurants nearby and is probably the most crowded beach around. Great views of the old city wall.
Another popular spot is Copacabana Beach, which is family-friendly and located on the Babin Kuk peninsula. This beach has a mix of pebbles and concrete sunbathing areas, as well as shallow waters that make it ideal for kids. Also has beach bars, restaurant and loungers.
Uvala Lapad Beach (aka Sunset Beach) is a sand-pebble mix and away from the Old Town. A few pebble paths take you to small coves and beaches, if you want some relative solitude.
Bellevue Beach is located as close to the center of Dubrovnik as the Adriatic can get, making it an easy spot to access. It is located below Hotel Bellevue and has pebbly sand. It’s a great place to go cliff diving (no, thanks!) or snorkeling.
Sveti Jakov Beach is about a 20-minute walk from the Old Town and lies beneath stunning cliffs. The beach is a mix of pebbles and sand and is great for swimming and snorkeling. It’s far less crowded than Dubrovnik’s more central beaches, has a beach bar and rents sunbeds and umbrellas.
The most secluded Dubrovnik beach, however, is the Betina Cave Beach. It’s located close to the city walls and can be accessed via a kayaking tour from the city. There’s a cool pebble beach in the cave and the waters there are calm enough for kids to swim and paddle in.
Finally, if you want to swim with the locals, head for Danče (pronounced dan-che) Beach. It’s about 5 minutes from the Old Town and has large rocks and jetties for sunbathing as well as a few ladders for climbing into and out of the water, which is deep here and therefore great for diving into.
Last Words
A week or two in Dubrovnik can be a unique holiday if you combine the beach and sightseeing. And if you go between the middle of September and the end of October, you’ll save money and won’t have to go through crowds to see the Old Town or swim at the Bellevue Beach. You don’t often have the opportunity to combine sun and sightseeing, and Dubrovnik is the perfect low-stress city to do them in.