That doesn’t mean that it’s dull (and, actually, Switzerland isn’t either). It just means you’ll find a well-developed tourist sector, a modern infrastructure with great public transport and unusually progressive laws and attitudes regarding the LGBTQ community.
For example, consenting same-sex sexual activity has been legal since 1934 and laws protecting LGBT individuals against all forms of discrimination have been on the books since 2004. Civil unions and marriages for same-sex couples are legal, same-sex couples are allowed to adopt and gays, lesbians and bisexuals are allowed to serve in the military.
I’m making a big deal of this because there are very few countries in the world as welcoming to and tolerant of gays, lesbians and trans individuals as Uruguay. Oh, by the way, it’s also got lots of great beaches. Uruguay’s eastern border is the South Atlantic Ocean, which gives it about 660 kilometers (410 miles) of coastline and some of the best beaches on the continent, beaches that offer something to every kind of traveler.
But there’s one drawback for tourists visiting a country as stable, prosperous and socially liberal as Uruguay: it won’t be easy to maintain a sensible budget. And if you factor in the cost of a return flight from Europe, it can sound a little daunting. But the flights aren’t that expensive and there are plenty of ways and means for a sensible budget traveler to reap the benefits of the country without breaking the piggybank.
Oh yeah, Uruguay – beautiful, warm and welcoming as it is – offers one more important reason to visit it: only Argentinians and Brazilians go there. The rest of the world – you, for example – never really consider giving the place a look-see because there’s Argentina to the west of it and Brazil to the north. This means that if you go at the right time, you might have some gorgeous beach almost all to yourself.
How to Get There
You have to fly for a long time, if you’re coming from Europe. Generally, 18 to 20 hours each way, with one stopover if you want the best prices. You will fly into the capital Montevideo, which is a terrific city if you like great architecture, wonderful food and the scent of the ocean in your nostrils.
When to Go There
For our purposes, the best time is from October to the middle of December because the weather is still great, there are fewer South American tourists and prices are lower. Prices are especially high at Easter and Carnival, from the middle of January to the end of February. It’s not a very hot tropical country, like some of its neighbors and is comfortable all year round.
You might also check out prices in March, when temps are still beach-friendly and the beaches are far less crowded. As for rain, it’s about the same, more or less, throughout the year, but the Atlantic breezes can be frisky at times. That doesn’t sound like a typical South American country – which is what I’ve been trying to tell you.
How to Get Around
As you would expect of a country like Uruguay, it has a great public transport infrastructure, with cheap local and distance bus fares: for example, e.g., from Montevideo to Punta del Diablo on the coast costs roughly €20.
Renting a car – which you might want to do for a few days to check out rural estancias or wineries in relatively remote areas – is also reasonably priced. And the roads are excellent and traffic rarely hectic.
But except for the aforementioned occasions, there’s little reason to resort to rental cars, let alone domestic airlines. After all, the country is less than a fifth the size of Germany.
A Few Budget Tips
Here are a few ways to save money and make Uruguay budget-friendly (they’re really just common sense):
- When eating out, look for the Menu Ejuctivo, special menus that often feature affordable meals with a few sides.
- Whenever possible, stay at a hostel or an Air BnB with a local, not only because they’re cheaper, but also because they often offer cooking facilities, so that you can prepare your own meals.
Montevideo
Montevideo is calm, quiet, a little boring (unless you’re interested in architecture and art) and quite expensive. Having said that, there are a number of very good hostels that are friendly to your budget (and see Budget Tips, above).
Again, try not to think of Uruguay as a typical so-called developing country where hostels and other budget accommodations can be a nightmare of bugs, bad plumbing and paper-thin walls. Here, you usually get what’s promised. And some decent hostels in the capital offer overnight accommodation for as little as €15-20. Just reserve early!
Street Food
The Uruguayan cuisine is heavily influenced by Argentina, where they have lots of cattle and eat lots of meat. So it’s not a great place for vegans and other vegetarians. But you’ll be happy to hear that Montevideo has lots of vegan or vegan-friendly restaurants, some of which are actually cheap.
Generally speaking, however, restaurants in Montevideo are a little more expensive than those in Buenos Aires, maybe because there isn’t as much competition. Here is some typical street food you can buy to ease your budget worries:
Choripan is a kind of spicy hot dog stuffed with chorizo, garlic and paprika and often served with a salsa called chimichurri. Available at street food stalls and street markets.
Sopaipilla, also called torta frita in Uruguay. It’s fried wheat bread made into dough with some butter or oil, rolled into a round shape and fried.
You’ll want to find the best places for empanadas, and there are many in Montevideo. If you don’t know yet, an empanada is a pocket-shaped turnover that is fried or baked and consists of pastry and a filling. If you’re a vegetarian, ask for the cheese filling or have it as dessert, with chocolate or banana.
Spring rolls are also popular (and cheap) in Uruguay, where they are called empanaditas chinas (Chinese turnovers) or arrolladitos primavera. They are often sold in takeaway places or vegetarian restaurants – and of course Chinese restaurants – and are inexpensive.
What to See
Walk around the town to admire the architecture or down to La Rambla to walks along the seashore, watch the locals, have a mate or just look at the sea. If you want to go on long walks or runs and then jump into the sea, this is the place for you. The Rambla is 22 kilometers long and goes past three large beaches.
The Playa Ramírez in Parque Rodó, for example, is popular with local families and musicians, and there is often live music played there. But don’t expect much privacy there.
Montevideo is a great place for art, with lots of galleries and museums. For example, the Museo Torres García and the Museo Gurvich are devoted to two Uruguayan artists, the internationally renowned Joaquín Torres-García and the lesser-known Modernist José Gurvich. Gurvich was somehow Uruguayan despite being born Zusmanas Gurvicius in Lithuania and dying in New York City at age 47. Both museums are fascinating, if you enjoy modern art, and both contain some remarkable works.
You should also check out the Museo del Azulejo, or Tile Museum. It contains tiles from all over the world. If you’re not familiar with the art of tiles, this will be an eye-opener and won’t take up much of your time. And it’s free.
Finally, definitely try to see the Collecion Engelman Ost, located just a block from the Tile Museum. It’s the largest private collection of modern art in Uruguay and opens only for tours given by one of the many artists represented in the collection.
Check online to see if there’ll be such a presentation when you’re in town and then reserve. It helps if you speak Spanish. If not, just look at the works while the artist discusses his or her art.
The Coast
As I already said, Uruguay has some of the greatest beaches on the continent, and one of the most popular beach destinations, Punta del Este. I have never been to Punta del Este and will never go, despite the fact that it has gorgeous beaches and a nightlife to die for.
If you want to spend a little more than you would in most other South American beach resorts, for the privilege of seeing the rich and famous of Argentina, Brazil and Europe cavort to the music of internationally known DJs, then do it. But go in the off-season, when it’s a little cheaper and less crowded.
If you travel west along the coast from Punta del Este towards the town of Juan L Lacaze, you’ll find a number of lovely beaches that are less crowded and located in towns that are less expensive.
There is the funky historic town of Colonia del Sacramento, one of Uruguay’s oldest cities and a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its well-preserved colonial architecture, cobblestone streets and charming old plazas. Be sure to visit the Barrio Historico, an old lighthouse there and the oldest church in Uruguay, the Basilica of the Holy Sacrament (Basílica del Santísimo Sacramento).
You’ll find affordable accommodation in the town and restaurants like the Buen Porto, that serve fresh and surprisingly inexpensive seafood. And there are very cool beaches all along its seashore, with the Playa El Ensueño, down the road apiece, especially spectacular.
Going north from Punta del Este, you’ll find a gaggle of beaches, one after the other. The town of Rocha is a few kilometers away from the shore and is surrounded by rolling dunes on one side and bucolic farmland on the other. It is in the province of the same name and everything is more savage and more relaxed here
For example, check out the resort of Aguas Dulces, which has incredible beaches, and La Serena Beach down the road at La Poloma. Both are prefect for long, sandy walks. It’s probably cheapest to find accommodation in Rocha and take the bus to the nearby beaches.
Or find something affordable in say, La Paloma. Then buy your seafood directly from a fisherman and have it cooked up at one of the local paradores (beach bars).
Or just eat what they offer, such as miniaturas, which are bite-size morsels you can share with friends; buñuelos de algas, or seaweed fritters, a local specialty; croquetas de sirí, or deep-fried crab croquettes; or milanesa de pescado, a filet of fish breaded and fried.
For a real adventure, try to make it to Cabo Polonio, farther north. No roads lead to it, so you either walk the 7 kilometers from the road or hitch a ride with a four-wheel vehicle.
There’s no electricity except that provided by solar panels and a few hostels have opened up. There’s also the La Perla del Cabo hotel, a family-run adults-only establishment right on the seashore, where you can eat fresh seafood (of course).
There are also two great beaches, perfect for surfing, and the world’s largest sea lion reserve.
Estancias Turisticas (and other non-beach activities)
Wine
I know you’re probably going for the beaches, but there’s plenty to see and do in the interior of the country too. For example, I love red wines and therefore assume everybody does, so why not visit one of the dozens of wineries located within a two-hour drive of Montevideo and taste some of the country’s excellent wines? NB: Take along a designated driver or travel by bus.
There are other, far better-known South American countries producing excellent wines, such as Chile and Argentina. But Uruguay’s wines are slowly being recognized for their quality.
Most of the wineries near the capital were founded by European immigrants and established at a distance from the capital that was rideable by horse. So if you’re traveling with a horse, you’ll save on bus fare.
My favorite Uruguyan wines are made from the Tannat grape, which is also grown in Spain’s Basque country and in southwestern France. (If you want a foretaste, try a good French Madiran.) The wines are spicy, strong and mouth-filling. If you’re doing a personal wine tour, visit the Giménez Ménde winery in the city of Canellones and try their 2020 Tannat Alta Reserva. It’s very reasonably priced for the quality.
Estancias Turisticas
These are working ranches that welcome guests and usually offer special activities for the guests, such as horseback riding, hiking, cycling, canoeing and zip lining., usually for a set price. They also often provide insight into the daily life on these ranches. And you’ll also get an excellent opportunity to taste Uruguayan dishes.
If you’re interested in spending a few days on an estancia and on a budget, I suggest looking for places that are off the beaten path, don’t have more than one swimming pool and offer free activities. Also see if the price includes meals (at least breakfast); if not, check the menu for prices.
One very nice, but rather pricey place that offers many paying activities is the Estancia Don Joaquín, in the seaside town of Scavino. On the other hand, the Estancia Los Plátanos, in Valentines, in central Uruguay, offers a lot of free activities, such as picnics in the nearby mountains, bird-watching and, my favorite, reading a book under a tree.
Last Words
Uruguay is a prime example of a modern, progressive country in which you can have an adventure or two without breaking the bank. Everything works there, you can drink the water everywhere, it’s safe, clean – and beautiful. And if you go at the right time, you can have your choice of uncrowded beaches and get an affordable tan you can be proud of.
Oh, I almost forgot: Pack some binoculars because Uruguay has more than 500 species of birds, many of which you’ll probably not have the chance to see again.