If you’re looking for a once-in-a-lifetime experience that might just change the way you look at the world, let me recommend a trip to Laos. The country only opened to tourism in 1999 and its tourism infrastructure is still a work in progress. But that only makes the adventure more exciting, makes it more likely to run into the unexpected and means that prices are still low.
That’s one reason the country has become a popular destination for backpackers – and backpacking is still the best – if not only – way to see it. Laos has not yet had the time to capitulate to the demands of tourism, nor has it been influenced by the type of tourist that demands all the comforts of home when they are abroad. In other words, the country is still true to itself and has not compromised its identity for profit. Not yet.
It also means that the people are poor. So a few people may try to rip you off – just a little. Tuk tuk drivers (a tuk tuk is a motorized rickshaw) are especially prone to this weakness. So do some research on fair prices, but pay anyway (unless the sum is egregiously over-the-top). Remember that they are poor, probably supporting a family and the added tariff is usually not much at all.
The Heart and Soul of Laos
The country is out-and-out gorgeous, with fascinating cities and villages, eye-popping waterfalls, amazing caves and a wealth of beautiful Buddhist temples, some of which are more than 1,500 years old. There is so much to see in Laos that you will have a hard time choosing where to go.
Laos also offers great chill-out opportunities – see ”The 4,000 Islands,” below – as well as a variety of travel choices – river boat, plane, bus, train, scooter, kayak, bike, foot. You get the idea.
I’ve saved the best of Laos for last: the people. They are very friendly and will be happy to see you, and not for the usual reason, your money. They are genuinely warm folks.
And they will be a little friendlier and a little happier if you speak just a few words of their language. (This is true of most places, but truer in Laos than anywhere I’ve been.) So, to get you started, here are two crucial Lao words: Sabaidee = Hello and Khob chai = Thank you. The rest is up to you.
A Word About Word of Mouth: When traveling through a country like Laos, it’s always helpful to hear what your fellow travelers are saying about places to see, stay at and eat in. That’s especially important when you’re on a budget. As the tourist infrastructure evolves, new places to stay or eat in will pop up. If you’re backpacking, you will inevitably meet others of your kind. So ask them about where they’ve been, what they’ve seen, where they’ve eaten and overnighted.
Before You Leave
- Buy a basic bilingual dictionary.
- Get a visa. You will need one. The in-country price is $50. Pay it in US dollars. I recommend getting a paper visa; the e-visa may not be accepted everywhere.
- Check to see if travel in Laos has special vaccine requirements or suggestions. The last time I heard, Hepatitis A, typhus and typhoid shots were recommended. But I have not heard of epidemics running rampant in the country and these vaxes are always recommended when you’re traveling to a country that doesn’t offer a choice of 20 brands of toilet paper.
Having said that, I feel obliged to add that on a trip to Guatemala, my companion contracted Hepatitis A and I caught it from her. It wasn’t pleasant. Inform yourself.
- Plan to go between November and January, to avoid the rainy season, which can be hazardous and have you facing closed roads and other wet annoyances. March to May is the slash-and-burn season, with smog everywhere.
- Try to pay with cash as often as possible, since ATM use incurs added charges. Inform yourself about the least expensive and most efficient ATM networks.
- Pack intelligently – a water bottle is a must.
Where to Go
These are just suggestions. There is so much awesome scenery and so many wonderful sites to visit in the country that you should inform yourself ahead of your trip and then talk to fellow travelers when you get there. Be prepared to change your itinerary on the go.
Luang Prabang
I suggest taking the plane to this tranquil city, rather than the capital Vientiane. It costs a few bucks more, but it is centrally located and therefore and ideal starting point for your journey.
The city boasts 33 gilded temples and is a center of the country’s Buddhist culture. The entire city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, distinguished for its historic architecture. Try to see the monks collecting alms at dawn and the Baci, or “calling of the soul,” ceremony.
To also see: A visit to the Kuang Si Falls is a must. An hour away from the city, it’s an enchanting place, with milky-white water tumbling over multiple cascades. Go early to avoid the inevitable crowds.
Wat Xieng Thong is one of the most important temples in Laos. It’s also elegant and beautiful.
Visit the night market to check out local handicrafts and, especially, the street food. Your immersion in the Lao cuisine begins here. (Must-taste: baked seaweed served with chili and sticky rice. Yummo!) The local rice wine, called Lao Lao, is very potent and is served with a side of deep-fried crickets, which taste like shrimp. Really. Would I lie?
Northern Laos
On your way north, you might stop off in Oudomxay province. It has a jaw-dropping mountainous landscape and is home to 12 ethnic minorities, including the Khmu, Hmong and lowland Lao tribes, each with their own languages, cultural heritage and lifestyles. One of the must-see sites in the province is the Nam Kat waterfall, one of the tallest waterfalls in Laos.
The best town to stay in is probably Muang Xay, the province capital, because you’re only 45km from the remarkable Chom Ong cave system and to watch the sunset from the Phu That pagoda. It’s also a good springboard for your trip north.
If you’re game and up for an adventure, the Khmu village of Bam Chong Ong is worth a visit, because it will probably be the least touristic place you will see in Laos. Last I heard, there’s no electricity or mobile phone signal in the village, so you’re as close to authentic Lao village life as you can get.
Apparently there is a very basic guesthouse with an outhouse in the village and the villagers will be glad to cook for you. Needless to say, it’s very inexpensive. On the other hand, good luck finding someone there who speaks English. So be sure to bring your bilingual dictionary.
The village will be the starting point for your visit to the Chong Ong caves because this is where you hire your English-speaking guide. Have lunch there while waiting for the guide. Bring a flashlight and wear good walking shoes for the caves. They are about 16km long and its walls are covered in rock crystal.
Getting to Nong Khiaw
Take a bus or minivan from Luang Prabang, any option that allows you to reserve a day ahead. The trip takes about 4 hours. From Muang Xay the bus to Nong Khiaw takes about 5 hours. Reserve ahead in your guesthouse.
Nong Khiaw has already seen some tourism so it has plenty of guesthouses and restaurants. But it’s still a beautiful, almost unspoilt hill village. It also offers lots of activities in the surrounding area. You can go mountain biking, climbing, kayaking, hiking. It is surrounded by other, less touristed villages that you could investigate.
Take a tour boat to lovely Muang Ngoi Neua. Find out the schedule. The trip lasts about 1 hour. Stay there long enough to see the Tham Kang and Pha Noi caves and some of the adjacent villages. Or just hike through the beautiful countryside.
You can continue on the boat to the village of Sop Keng, which is poor and, last I heard, relatively untouched by tourism.
Remember: Respect the villagers. Don’t take photos of them without first asking. Try not to disrupt their daily lives. Smile.
Central Laos
Thakhek is a charming town set in an awesome landscape, which includes the Konglor Cave, a limestone cave that stretches for more than 7 kilometers. You can take a boat ride through the cave to see its underground rivers and immense stalactites.
You can also go swimming in nearby lakes and, if you’re a biker, ride the Thakhek Loop, some 450 km (20 miles) of gravel, dirt and paved roads that take you into the heart of the landscape. But you’ll need at least 3 days to ride it, so not an option if you’re strapped for time.
Southern Laos
Pakse, where the Mekong and Xe Don rivers meet, is the capital of the southern province of Champasak and a good place to use as a springboard for your trip to the 4,000 Islands.
As long as you’re there, you could eat at one of the floating restaurants on the Mekong, check out the Big Buddha at Vat Phou Salao and visit the Buddhist temple of Wat Luang. But if you’re like me and want to avoid the hustle and bustle of a large city – which is, after all, one reason you’re in Laos – you’ll want to head for the 4,000 Islands.
On the way, you could (actually, you really have to) stop off for at least one night at Champasak to see the nearby Wat Phou temple complex, which dates back to the 5th century. The Wopakok Hotel is your best budget option in the town.
The 4,000 Islands (aka Si Phan Don)
As you can imagine, the 4,000 Islands consists of lots of tiny islands in the Mekong Delta. Most of the islands are uninhabited and are too small to need roads. In other words, this is where you go to chill out.
Boat trips from Pakse to the 4,000 Islands are no longer available, unless you find a large group that wishes to go. Ask around in Pakse to make sure. (Look for Green Paradise Travel.) Otherwise, get the bus at the Pakse Southern Bus Terminal. A 3-hour (more or less) trip takes you to Nakasang, where you catch the ferry to the island of Don Det.
You’ll find many (more or less) charming and cheap guesthouses on the island, which is a great place to swim and relax and also to walk and/or bike around. Try to reserve a room in a bungalow with a river view.
There’s more to do in the 4,000 Islands than nothing at all. There are lots of waterfalls, for example, such as the magnificent Li Phi waterfall near Don Khon.
Unfortunately, you can no longer take a local boat or kayak to see the freshwater Irrawaddy Dolphins, as the last of that critically endangered species in Laos died in 2022. (About 100 of these beautiful mammals remain.) I mention this only to remind readers of the critical state of our environment and to be as kind as possible to the natural world while traveling.
But you still can take a riverboat cruise on the Mekong, go hiking, biking – or do nothing at all except smile.
NB: There are no ATMs here, so bring plenty of cash in Lao kips.
You’re right on the Cambodian border here, so you can easily cross into that country from there, if that’s your plan. Ask at your guesthouse how to get to the border by bus and reserve or buy a ticket ahead of time. You’ll need a visa to get into Cambodia. Expect a corruption surcharge of 10 to 20% at the border.
How to Get Around
If time is more important to you than money, take a plane to bridge long distances – for example, if you want to head straight to the south from northern Laos by catching a plane from Luang Prabang to Pakse.
The train is a reasonable option. There is a high-speed train from Luang Prabang to the capital Vientiane, from where you can continue on to Pakse.
More than likely, you’ll be traveling by bus. If you’re traveling by bus at night, avoid the local night buses. Period. Spend a little extra for the VIP night buses, which are comfortable and air-conditioned.
The VIP buses are also a good option during the day, as they are far less likely to be overcrowded or break down. The little extra you’ll pay is well worth it. Make your reservations through your guesthouse, hostel or a traveler’s café. And always reserve!
The expansion of the country’s highway infrastructure has been a death knell for most of the boat travel on the Mekong and its tributaries. Too bad. Years ago, I caught a local boat from Pakse and went down the Mekong to the 4,000 Islands. There are some amazing places along the river, with old temples to visit – if you’re lucky enough to find a boat.
A Final Word
Everything changes, and the tourist scene in Laos is changing as we speak. What was once an insider’s secret has now become common knowledge. In addition, the fact that the window for a visit is so small – three months, maybe four, at most – some places may be more crowded than I imply above. Mea culpa. But it doesn’t matter. Laos is one of those countries that you will never forget and to which you may become addicted. I know of people who went there for a visit and stayed on. Inform yourself, come prepared, keep an open mind, be patient and you will have an unforgettable adventure.