I don’t know the answer to that question or how to judge, but many people say that it might be. I’m something of a Francophile and a vins français-ophile, so I will stick to Paris (though who can afford it anymore?). But this Spanish resort in the heart of the Basque Country sure comes close. And, to get it straight from the start, the city’s full name is Donostia–San Sebastián, and aka San Seb.
What makes this city special? In a few words, culture, food, beaches, nightlife, music, sunsets, architecture, relatively low prices, nature trails…. Have I mentioned food? Unlike many more renowned tourist destinations, San Sebastián has no spectacular ancient sites to visit or dramatic history to recount. Rather, it is a city that is rich in beauty, culture and great cooking, which is an unbeatable combination for a place to have, especially one as small as San Seb (pop. 188,000).
And it is in the heart of the Basque Country, which is officially known as the Basque Autonomous Community and is home to a unique and ancient culture in which the Basques participate actively, through music, dance, its language, euskara, and its food. Which is to say that it is a living culture that has not only survived modern changes such as globalization, but has thrived by adapting to and exploiting them. For example, Basque improvised poetry is today sung to old tunes as well as to songs inspired by Latino music, rock, funk, rap and jazz.
So, considering all the city has to offer, San Sebastián may just be the most affordable tourist destination in Western Europe, based on the essential bang-for-your-buck calculation.
When to Visit
Good question. The answer, as usual, is: It depends on what you want to do. But before we get to that, a note about the weather. It rains a lot in San Sebastián, especially from October to February. Overall, here’s a quick breakdown:
- Foodies will want to go in spring, from March to May, when it is easy to get a table at a restaurant or find some space at the counter of a pinxto bar.
- Swimmers and tanners will want to go from June to September, when there is lots of sun , little rain and temperatures are just right for many days at the beach. BUT: Many, many other tourists will crowd you on the beaches, make you wait on lines at restaurants and bars and generally ruin your life. Plus, these are the expensive months.
So I recommend September, when many tourists have cleared out and prices are coming down. In addition, the famous San Sebastián International Film Festival takes place at the end of the month, which will bring more tourists, but they’re cool because they’re there for the cinema.
- If you’re like me and go for the wine and the solitary walks and the low prices, go in October to the first half of November. There will be rain, but also sunny days warm enough for a hike or (dare you dream?) a day on the beach.
- Winter is for those who love grey skies, pelting rain and festivals (well, what else are you going to do in the rain expect dance and get drunk, right?) The highlight is the Tamborrada, which begins on the evening of January 19. The Basque dining societies’ members march through the city dressed as cooks and soldiers, drumming all night and into the following day. These societies are members-only exclusive, except on this festival.
How to Go There
Easy-peasy. Fly to Bilbao and hop on the public shuttle bus to San Sebastián, which takes about 90 minutes. Flights to Barcelona are considerably cheaper than to Bilbao, but probably not enough to make it worth your while – unless you’re up for a 6-hour train ride from the Mediterranean to the Bay of Biscay.
What to Eat There
San Seb is the best place for food in Spain no matter what your budget is. But since we’re budget-conscious and fanciers of street food, we’ll get right into it now.
Repeat after me: pin-cho. That is how you pronounce the exquisite Basque tapas-like food that residents of northern Spain love to consume as appetizers, with drinks, before dinner. It is spelled pintxo, which is a Basque word meaning ‘spike’, referring to the fact that they are often served on skewers.
How to eat pintxos
This is how you will go about eating pintxos: Go into a bar that serves them. Ask the barperson what their pintxo specialty is. Order two of them. They will be very good. While waiting, take one or two from those available on the counter. If the place is crowded, be so kind as to move away from the counter to eat them.
They are made to be eaten while standing. Some places have tables (without chairs) outside, so eat them there. I strongly recommended that you try the local sparkling wine txakoli with your pintxos, because both names have an ‘x’. (No, I’m being silly. They go really well together, and in any case always try what the locals drink. They know.)
When you’re done, throw your napkin on the ground. Yes, really. This will not be taken as criticism of the food or service, but is a quite sensible custom so that you don’t put your dirty napkins on the bar near the immaculate pintxos. Then move on to the next bar. Pintxos are best enjoyed by barhopping.
In any case, to avoid stuffing yourself and sticking out as a dumb tourist, have no more than two, at most three, at any one bar. Unless you’re on a tight budget, in which case this could and should be your dinner. Why not? They are filled with all sorts of good stuff, prawns, green peppers, sausage, monkfish, etc., and are very filling.
Ask a friendly and knowledgeable local where to find the best pintxos. Most of the good one are to be found in the Old Town. For a funky yet mouth-watering experience, try the Bar Sport. Or, if you love anchovies as much as I do, try the Txepetxa, where they are the stars of the menu. And let yourself be surprised by the pintxo made with blueberry jam and pickled anchovy. It tastes about a million times better than it sounds.
The Markets
San Sebastián has some amazing markets with shops selling platos preperados, or ready-made meals that are excellent and great for the budget. For example, Iñaki & Jenny at the Mercado St. Martin offers a vast menu that includes croquete de bacalao (cod croquettes), tortillas de patatas (potato tortillas, not to be confused with Mexican tortillas) and empanada gallega (Galician empanada), slices of a savory pie filled with onion, pepper and tomato and, often, tuna and egg.
If the weather is fine, find a supermarket or go to the Mercado St. Martin or the La Brexta mercado local to pick up some breads, jamón or non-meat sandwich filling, beer and or cider and head for the calm and sheltered Kontxa hondartza, or Playa de La Concha, for a nice picnic on the beach.
But – budget be damned! – San Sebastián has so many affordable restaurants that serve terrific food you might as well regard your visit to the city as part culinary adventure. Check or ask around for the best affordable eateries. And there will always be a good pintxo bar near you to hop into and save a few euros while enjoying a delicious informal, stand-up meal.
What to See
First of all, you should know that San Seb is a marvelous city for walking because you can walk from anywhere to anywhere. It has many large pedestrian sections, there are wonderful walks along the river and bay as well as streets decorated with exceptional architecture. So do yourself a favor and walk.
The city has has four different centers of activity, each one offering different experiences and venues for a diverse tastes and interests. Beginning with the Old Town, which has the harbor on the west and the Urumea river to the east. Here you’ll find the most popular pintxo bars and restaurants and a bunch of reasonably priced accommodations.
However charming the Old Town is, it is misnamed. It’s only the second-oldest neighborhood in the city, after Antiguo – but it’s certainly old enough. There are some fascinating sites, such as the Baroque Basilica of St. Mary of the Chorus (Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Coro) and the Gothic Church of St. Vincente, the oldest church in the city.
There’s also the Plaza de la Constitución, which is nice to look at and, fun fact, used to be the site of a bullring. The numbers on the balconies on the buildings that line the square date from those days. Check out the beautiful City Hall, which was originally built as a casino, and the Plaza Guipúzcoa, which, is more of a park than a plaza. And your favorite beach, the Playa de La Concha, is also in the Old Town.
And try to make time for a visit to the Museo San Telmo to learn all about Basque culture and history and to see the beautiful 16th-century Renaissance-style building that houses it. It was a Dominican convent and later an artillery barracks. That’s taking the term mixed use to extremes.
On the east side of the Urumea lies the district of Gros, where young people hang out, not least because of the Playa de Gros, a popular surfing beach. The area has lots of art galleries and music venues. It also has the Tabakalera, a former tobacco factory that was converted into a contemporary culture center that houses, among other cultural activities, the Basque Film Archive, the Etxepare Basque Institute and, in September, the San Sebastián International Film Festival.
In the Ondaretto-Igeldo district you’ll find the lovely Ondarreta Beach, which lies between the Igeldo mountain and the Miramar Palace gardens. The beach is 500 meters long and is a great place to catch a tan. The gardens adjoin the beach and are great for cooling off, reading in the shade and admiring the view. You can also take the old funicular up Mount Igeldo, atop which is an amusement park for the kid in you or the kids you brought along.
Finally, I mention the Amara-Anoeta area only because it I said four areas of interest in the city. This is a residential district notable only for the Anoeta Stadium, home of the Real Sociedad football team, and the Antano III Pelota Court Velodrome, where the world pelota championships have been played since 1970.
Where to Stay
Here are the cheapest places to stay in the city:
- Colo Colo Hostel, which offers sing private beds.
- Koisi Hostel, in Antiguo
- Olarain, 300 meters from the beach
- Balea Hostel, on the river, 20 mins. from city center
- Downtown River Hostel Donostia, in the city center, close to the river.
Also check out places in the Old Town. As Always, reserve as early as possible.
Last Words
Easy to get to, easy to walk through, easy to love, Donostia–San Sebastián should really be on everyone’s travel bucket list. It rewards both a weekend visit and a longer stay with what I think is a unique travel experience because of the city’s very special Basque ambience. I experience places as much (and often more) through my stomach as via my eyes. San Seb offers delights for all the senses, including wonderful music for the ears. And, hey, it’s got a river, it’s got the bay , it’s got beaches. What the hell more do you want?