The reason was the tyrannical rule of one man, Enver Hoxha. A hard-core communist, Hoxha became First Secretary in 1941, before becoming Prime Minister in 1944 — but he held the top leadership role until his death in 1985. Simply put, Hoxha turned off the lights and he and his minions did terrible things under the cover of darkness.
The country finally (and tentatively) opened to the world in April 1991, when the Republic of Albania was founded and the first parliamentary elections were held. One year later, all communist symbols were torn down and removed, but it wasn’t until 1998 that the former People’s Socialist Republic of Albania was annulled as a legal entity when the country’s new Constitution was adopted.
After Albania opened to the world, it was for many years a source of curiosity for journalists, who were mostly interested in the archaic customs that still reigned there, such as family blood feuds and vendettas. Albania has come far from the darkness that once enveloped it, though it doesn’t yet compare to, for example, Greece in its tourist infrastructure – and, deep in its hills, blood feuds and vendettas may still be practiced.
That’s one reason you ought to go, since it means that it won’t be nearly as expensive as Greece or Italy, though it has the same sunny climate and similarly beautiful beaches along its 450-kilometer (280-mile) Adriatic coastline and smaller Ionian coasts in the south. That is the country’s main attraction, beaches, beaches, beaches and lagoons – though, of course there’s more to it than that.
*Tirana is the capital; other cities include Durrës, Elbasan and Shkodër. Now you know.
What You Should Know About Albanians
Because the country was shut off from the world until the early 1990s, Albanians who were born or grew up after the borders opened have very different attitudes to the world than do their parents. They are more open, more of them (about two out of three) speak English and are ‘European’.
Having said that, Albanians are generally friendly, very sociable and welcoming – though few of the older generation speak European languages, with the exception of Greek, in some cases. However, talking about things like mental health and sex is frowned on.
Among the older generations, men are still the dominant gender in society and children and women are not treated as equals. In some areas, older women wear white headscarves in public. More than half of Albanians identify as Muslims and only a few openly identify as non-religious or atheist.
Please note: LGBT+ individuals face legal challenges in Albania not experienced by non-LGBT+ residents, though they are protected under anti-discrimination legislation. For example, same-sex unions are not recognized in the country in any form.
This bias is often palpable in public reactions to same-sex couples; in this regard, Albania is still a very conservative country. So, if you are an LGBT+ traveler, you could be hassled. If you’re still interested in seeing the country – and you should be – maybe you should contact one of the support groups in the country for information, such as United Pro LGBT Albania.
How to Get There
It costs less to fly round trip to Tirana from almost anywhere in Europe than it costs to ride the metro in your city for a month. That is no exaggeration. If you don’t believe me, check it out yourself here. Almost all flights to and from major cities are direct and take between two and four hours. It’s almost too easy to get there.
Albania is not a member of the EU but has since June 2014 been an official candidate for accession. The Council of the European Union decided in March 2020 to open accession negotiations with Albania. If you’re from the EU or the UK, you don’t need a visa for a visit of less than 90 days.
When to Go There
Now that my son is old enough to take care of himself and is away at college, I’ve become the off-season kind of guy I was before he was born. (There’s the cat, of course, but I’ve got friends.)
Albania can get very hot in summer and the best beaches are rather small, so they can get crowded quickly. For swimming, hiking, general sight-seeing and other tourist activities, May and September-October are the best months – and in May and October, off-season prices still apply.
The Beaches of Albania
A Word of Caution
As I said, Albania is coming from a dark place and is still catching up – including in the tourism sector. In its rush to welcome moneyed tourists, it built up infrastructure faster than it understood hospitality.
This shows most clearly at its many beaches. Along both the Adriatic and Ionian coasts, the country has around 100 beaches. An unhappy number are – there’s no other way to say this – trashy, because people litter and no one cleans up.
That said, friends tell me it’s slowly improving. A shame, since these beaches are among Europe’s most beautiful, with Mediterranean weather – think southern Italy or Greece – and up to 300 sunny days a year.
Some restaurants and bars near beaches are overpriced and – again, no other way to say it – terrible. It’s smart to ask other tourists where they’ve eaten or stayed.
More generally, tourist services are inconsistent. Some tours are excellent; others range from incompetent to rip-offs. Word of mouth is often more reliable than online reviews, which are usually too contradictory to be useful.
Still, don’t let this put you off. Albania is rich in natural beauty and great weather. Now is probably the time to go – before it becomes the pricey, polished paradise it’s destined to be, and less like itself.
And speaking of food (three paragraphs up), one great pleasure in Albania is its seafood, which is often substantially cheaper than elsewhere (in Greece, for example, the price of fish has skyrocketed over the past decade due to overfishing) and as fresh as the spray from the waves.
Albanian Riviera Beaches
The best beaches are down here, along the Ionian coast in the south of the country. Beginning with – though in no particular order – Krorëza Beach. Located between Lukovë and Saranda, it is beautiful, sandy, popular and yet big enough to offer some personal space. It has lovely, clear water, is fine for snorkeling or diving, but can get a bit windy. There are some amenities, as well as parking and sunbeds for rent.
Located between Saranda and Dhërmi, Lukovë Beach consists of several beaches of sand and white pebbles and is large enough for some privacy. It is easy to get to and very clean. The charming village of Lukovë overlooks the Ionian Sea and is probably worth a brief look-see, if only for the views.
If you like to kayak, the Filikur Beach is worth the journey (about 30 minutes) because it’s rarely crowded and the trip from Himarë is an adventure, since you can stop en route in the small inlets along the shoreline. There is a path down to the beach, but it’s dangerous and involves shimmying down a slippery rope. So, unless you’re foolhardy or athletic, take the boat.
Gjipe Beach is located in the Gjipe Canyon, between Himarë and Dhermi. Due to its remote location the best way to reach it is by car or taxi from the above-mentioned towns. Then you still have to hike about 30 minutes to reach the beach.
This sounds bad but is in reality very good since it means that there is no concrete and there are no crowds (though it is gradually gaining fans). There are a few beach bars selling refreshments and food in the summer, but bring plenty of water, snacks and a meal. And don’t forget sun cream, a hat and sturdy shoes.
And if you want to camp out, this is the place to do it – if you have enough food etc. to get by. The campsite also sells daily passes for its bathroom and shower facilities.
As long as you’re already there, you might as well check out the remarkable Gjipe Canyon. It’s less than 1 kilometer long and not very wide, but it’s full of fascinating wildlife, including turtles and, if you’re lucky, you’ll spot some dolphins in the sea.
Also lovely is Pulëbardha Beach, which is located between Saranda and Ksamil. To get there, you can take the bus that runs between Saranda and Butrint every hour or go by taxi or car.
Northern Albania Beaches
Velipoja beach is the country’s northernmost beach, and is located about 22 kilometers from the city of Shkodër. Though it’s in the north, temps in the region start climbing above 20°C in May. It’s about 4 kilometers long, sandy with calm waters, which makes it perfect for families.
Do not go to Shëngjin beach! Too much concrete, too much filth in the water. Much better is the nearby Rana e Hedhun beach. It has great dunes and really good sand and is a great place for long seaside walk. Some people have told me that there was too much litter in the water to go swimming, but it was clean when I was there, and people were actively cleaning up.
Still, it could really use an infrastructure upgrade. In any case, check it out for yourself before you strip down to the Speedos. If the water’s dirty, just go for a walk.
In central Albania, not far from Tirana, there are a large number of marvelous sand beaches stretching down the Adriatic coast. Because of their proximity to the capital, they are both built up and crowded during the peak season. If you must try one, let it be the Shkëmbi i Kavajës Beach, south of Durrës. It’s less crowded and a little less built up.
Lalzi Bay in central Albania is very nice with terrific beaches and lots of pine forests. It stretches from the Cape of Bishti i Pallës to the Cape of Rodon. Because the area has so many beaches, it has many big resorts, which means lots of people at the best-known swimming areas, such as Gjiri Lalzit, aka Lalzi Bay Beach.
If you want a little solitude and don’t need sand between your toes, try the pebbly Kallmi Beach. It’s located about 4 kilometers from the city of Durrës and has clear waters, lovely surrounding green hills and a few bars and restaurants that play music which won’t blow you out of the water. NB: If there is some trash on the beach, look for a clean spot because it’s calm and lovely otherwise.
Finally, the Cape of Rodon (aka Cape of Skanderbeg) is definitely worth a look. It’s 90 minutes by car from Tirana and an hour from Durrës. It’s a savagely beautiful place with narrow sand beaches that are often frequented by divers and sometimes visited by strong waves and winds.
The Albanian national hero, Gjergj Kastriot Skanderbeg, Our old friend built a castle on the cape that is still partly there. It was destroyed by the Ottoman Turks, rebuilt by the Venetians and later overwhelmed by the waves. Some of the walls are underwater, but three walls and a tower are still visible.
(Not the) Final Words About Albania
Because Albania is still relatively little known to many travelers and will, I think, eventually become – because of its amazing beaches and other natural attractions – overbuilt and overpriced, I thought that it would be appropriate to discuss the country as a tourist destination in more detail.
So, as you’ve noticed, this first part has been devoted to background and beaches. Albania, Part 2, will discuss some of the cities, sites of interest, such as its many castles (there may actually be more ruined castles than beaches) and national parks, as well as other none-swimming activities, primarily hiking. Look for it next week.