For example, there are no fewer than 158 castles and fortifications in the country, which suggests a violent history and interesting visits for history buffs and lovers of castles. Some of the castles date back nearly 3,000 years. Most of them are in ruins, but a surprising number have been preserved, renovated or rebuilt.
If there are castle ruins near where you happen to be and you have a little time for a detour, some of the ruins are interesting on their own but, because they were almost always built on the highest hills in the area, for obvious reasons, they always offer the best view of the surrounding area.
How to Get Around
Simply put, the best way to get around Albania is by car rental. There are so many treasures off the beaten path – and so many relatively unbeaten paths – that it’s worth shelling out the money, especially when you consider how inexpensive everything else is. You can rent a car for as little as €5 a day. But don’t do that unless you’re just going to travel from beach to beach.
So much of Albania involves hills and mountains, including traveling along the Llogara Pass that connects southern Albania with the northern part of the country, that you’ll need four-wheel drive, which costs more.
The cheaper alternative is traveling by bus, in which case you want to pre-book it online a day in advance, if that service is available. Otherwise, you will have to put up with unreliable schedules and lots of waiting around until the bus comes or the bus you’re on is full. If you’ve got lots of patience, lots of time – a month, for example – or decide to come again to see what you missed the first time, then take the bus and use a taxi whenever there is no bus.
The Cities of Albania
This listing goes from must-see to should-see to as-long-as-you’re-in-the-area-anyway.
Tirana
Since it is the capital of Albania, Tirana has been granted a post of its own. Please find it HERE.
Berat
Berat is lovely and a UNESCO World Heritage site located in southern Albania, and is often referred to as the “City of a Thousand Windows” because of its unique Ottoman architecture. It’s so beautiful that even a Communist thug like Enver Hoxha could recognize it; he named it Albania’s “Museum City” and didn’t do it too much damage. We can be grateful for it is a beautiful sight, its white houses seeming to flow down the side of the hill on which it is built.
The Kala, also called the Old Town or Castle Quarter, is – or should be – your first stop., because that’s where the Castle is [see below]. At the bottom of the hill, you’ll find two distinct neighborhoods on either side of the Osumi River.
The quarter called Mangalem is the former Muslim district and has the city’s most important mosques. Make sure to check out the Helveti Teqe. Cross the Gorica Bridge to see the Christian side of the river, called Gorica. To see here are the St. Spiridon Basilica and Church of St. Thomas.
The Onufri National Iconographic Museum (Muzeu Kombëtar Ikonografik Onufri) holds a collection of more than 200 icons and artefacts salvaged from the ruins of churches and is one of Albania’s most important collections of ecclesiastical art.
The Byzantine church St. Mary of Blachernae (Kisha e Shën Mëri Vllahernës). is one of the city’s oldest churches and dates back to the 13th century. Most of the original frescoes remain intact. But whatever you do, take the time to walk through the city’s narrow stone alleys and streets and get a feel of its history.
Nearby: you’ll need a four-wheel-drive to visit the amazing Osum Canyon, located 50 kilometers from Berat. Some of the roads are bad; also, some parts of the canyon are tricky to navigate. But wow!
Gjirokastër
Gjirokastër is also UNESCO-protected and another beautiful city with a wonderfully preserved castle. UNESCO describes the city as “a rare example of a well-preserved Ottoman town,” which is one reason you should spend more than a day there.
There is, for example, the Old Town, which dates to the 17th century but was rebuilt 200 years later after a devastating fire. Today it is a busy and fascinating bazaar. The narrow, twisting cobblestone streets take you past quaint cafés, woodworking artisans and small shops selling teas, oil, wine, souvenirs and rugs. It is especially lively after sunset.
It is also home to the town’s best restaurants, so is a wonderful place to have dinner and taste the local specialty, Qifqi (pronounced chief-gee). It’s made with rice, eggs and mint, which are formed into balls and fried. Ask about the different stuffings available.
More than 500 old houses have been named cultural monuments by UNESCO. These include the remarkable stone fortresses built by the town’s prominent families. Tours are available or you could walk around on your own. Make sure to see the Zekate House, which is truly impressive with its two towers. A guided tour of the house will cost you the equivalent of about €2.
Check out the Old Bazaar Mosque. It’s the only one of the 13 that were built during the Ottoman era that was not destroyed by the communists. No one knows why.
Also visit the huge 59-room bunker Hoxha had built in an expensive fit of paranoia during the Cold War. Today it’s called the Cold War Tunnel Museum. It was equipped with just about everything an ignorant government believed would save it from a sneak nuclear attack. It has been left with its original furnishings and paranoid ambience.
For the town’s castle, see below.
Don’t go to the Durrës Beach. It’s crowded and noisy. Do go to the Durrës amphitheater. It’s the largest and most important Roman amphitheater in Albania and well worth an hour or two. Supposedly, it once held up to 20,000 people for different ‘sporting’ events, such as gladiator fights.
The only other reason to visit the city, and it’s a good one, is its fresh and affordable seafood dishes. Restaurants serve everything from fresh codfish to sea bass, shrimp, crab and more – and it costs a lot less than in other European countries.
Himarë
Himarë is more than just a beach resort and remains, still, surprisingly tranquil. It has a sizable Greek population, which you’ll see reflected in the many Greek signs and Greek eateries there.
The old town is farther up in the hills, a few kilometers from the city center, and seems unchanged by recent developments. It’s a warren of cobblestone alleyways, dilapidated dwellings and a few old churches. The big attraction is the ruined castle (Kështjella e Himarës), which is very old. It’s not much to look at, but the views from up there are impressive.
In the port you can also book a tour to the Karaburun peninsula and the Karaburun-Sazan National Marine Park, which is a must-see. But do some window-shopping before you book because not all tour providers are equal.
Shkodër
Shkodër is a fascinating city and worth a visit (or maybe a night or three), because it has great little restaurants that serve everything from traditional Albanian food to seafood, because it can be a jumping-off point for the beaches and the Albanian Alps and because of the Site of Witness and Memory.
This museum is a wonderful – and sobering – way to learn the country’s history, as it is in large part a memorial to the thousands of people who were tortured and killed during the communist era. It includes two floors of prison cells and a torture room, just so you get the idea up close and personal. Highly recommended.
Nearby: Lake Shkodër is the largest lake in the Balkans and spans two countries, Albania and Montenegro. You can swim in it, explore it by paddleboard or kayak and/or watch the approximately 300 species of birds that hang out on it, including pelicans(!), herons and cormorants.
Instead of Shëngjin, I’d recommend a visit to nearby Lezhë. For a town with a population of about 15,000, it has a lot of history. It’s one of Albania’s oldest continuously inhabited cities, with recorded history going back almost 2,500 years.
The magnificent Byzantine Orthodox Church of Lezhë is definitely worth a look. Go early in the morning to be able to take in its beauty and ambience in peace.
Especially check out the fascinating remnants of the Church of Saint Nicholas (aka the Church-Mosque), which was built in the 14th century and was converted into a mosque in 1580 after the Ottomans reconquered Albania. It was allowed to fall into ruin under the communists until 1981, when it was used to house the Skanderbeg Mausoleum.
Gjergj Kastriot Skanderbeg is the Albanian national hero and is buried there, or what’s left of him. He led a temporarily successful war against the invading Ottoman Turks that so impressed his enemies that, after finally defeating him, desecrated his grave by making amulets of his bones to confer bravery on whoever wore them.
The Castles of Albania
The Berat Castle dates back at least 2,500 years as there are records of a fortress on the site being conquered by the Romans in 200 B.C. It has been enlarged several times over the centuries. Remarkably, it is mostly intact and has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The castle is actually a small town since inside its walls there is a mosque, several churches and small houses that are still occupied. To get there, simply climb up or take a bus from the city. Best would be to stay at one of the guesthouses within the castle walls.
Krujë Castle (Kalaja e Krujës) is located, as you’ve probably guessed, in the city of Krujë and it gives me the welcome opportunity to talk about Albania’s national hero, Gjergj Kastriot Skanderbeg. He led a temporarily successful war against the invading Ottoman Turks that so impressed his enemies that, after invading the country, they desecrated his grave by making amulets of his bones to confer bravery on whoever wore them. (Talk about a back-handed compliment.)
Gjirokastër Castle (Kalaja e Gjirokastrës) is the second largest fortress in the entire Balkan region and sits atop a hill above the city of the same name. It also overlooks the beautiful Drino Valley and has great views of the mountain ranges that surround it. It also has tanks, gunnery equipment, and even a downed American warplane.
Climb the clock tower built in the 19th century and the castle walls for the best views. And definitely check out the Museum of Gjirokastër, which covers the archeological history of the city and region from ancient times to the communist era.
Krujë Castle (Kalaja e Krujës) was the primary site of Skanderbeg‘s rebellion against the Ottoman. He was governor of Krujë in 1438, when he was in Ottoman service, and eventually defected. He raised the Albanian flag there and took control of the town. The Ottomans laid siege to Krujë four times between the years 1450 and 1479, finally defeating the dogged Albanians, after which they slaughtered all the men and took the women away as slaves.
At present what remains of the castle are a ruined watchtower, the main gate, parts of some walls and towers, the ruins of a mosque and its minaret and a Turkish bath. In the 1980s, the Gjergj Kastrioti Skanderbeg National Museum was built on the site. The views from the castle are great, the museum is interesting and there’s a charming Ottoman bazaar in front of the castle.
If you’re enjoying the beaches near Himarë, definitely take a day to visit the city, the castle as well as other castles in the area, such as the well-preserved Porto Palermo Castle (Kalaja e Porto Palermos), which is located in in the Bay of Porto Palermo, on the Albanian Riviera, and offers great sea views.
Rozafa Castle (Kalaja e Rozafës) is situated about 3 kilometers from Shkodër city center and is definitely worth the trip. It was built by Venetians in the 14th century and sits on a steep hill near Lake Shkodër, so offers marvelous vies of the area and the confluence of the Buna and Drin rivers.
On a clear day you can see as far as the marvelous and marvelously named Accursed Mountains, aka Albanian Alps. (There are several legends of why the mountains bear that accursed name, which means that no one really knows.)
Hiking in Albania
Albania offers some of the best hiking in Europe – and there are trails, ranging in difficulty from “no problem” to “not on your life.” The best trails are in the north of the country, in the Albanian Alps (aka the Accursed Mountains; see just above).
If that’s where you’re planning to hike, the best place to stay in before the hike is Shkodër. Ask your guesthouse host to arrange your trip to, for example, Albona for the rugged hike from Valbona to Theth, which apparently is the most popular hike in the country. They will also allow you to store your luggage for a small fee, which is of course very convenient.
This is rough country, so come well-prepared and fit. Also, if you’re not sure if a certain trail suits your skills or lack thereof, do speak with other hikers. There are small restaurants in spots along the trails, which are all well marked, and at the end of the above hike, there is the fascinating Theth National Park, which offers additional hikes.
The Llogara National Park (Parku Kombëtar i Llogarasë/Llogorasë) is a national park centered on the Ceraunian Mountains along the Albanian Riviera. It’s located about 190 kilometers from Tirana and 35 kilometers from Vlorë. It’s a small park but gorgeous and a little wild and offers a number of hikes of different length and difficulty.
The most interesting is probably the 9-kilometer Maja e Qorres hike, aka Qorra Peak. It’s of moderate difficulty until you get near the top of the mountain, where it goes straight up. Great views of the surrounding mountains and both the Adriatic and Ionian shores.
You’re going to visit the beautiful city of Gjirokastër anyway, so you might as well bring along your hiking boots because there are some terrific hikes in the area. For example, at the nearby Antigonea Archaeological Park. Its 7.4-kilometer loop trail is considered challenging, but it couldn’t be that difficult because there always seem to be people on it. The ruins of the ancient Greek village of Antigoneia, which was built some 2,750 years ago, are on the site of the park
Other cool hikes include the waterfall loop from Strëmbec, which takes you up 1,000 meters to, yes, a lovely mountain waterfall, past some shy but fascinated goats; and the moderately difficult hike from the Ali Pasha Bridge in Gjirokastër to the Gjirokastër Castle.
There are many reasons to visit Lake Ohrid: its deep gorgeous waters, the surrounding mountain panorama, its unique aquatic ecosystem and the marvelous hiking trails through Galicia National Park. The lake sits on the border with North Macedonia and has exciting trails on both sides of the border.
Albania really is a paradise for hikers. You can be just about anywhere in the country and find a dozen different trail that take you to unexpected sights and pleasures. NB: Some trails you are targeting might have been closed or altered due to reasons of conservation. In any case, before you go, be sure to inform yourself as much as possible about the trails, what you’ll need and what you can expect to find.
Last Words (really!)
Go to Albania while it’s still affordable and there’s still plenty of room for real adventure. You’ll certainly be delighted and surprised, you’ll probably be irritated and/or frustrated at times and you’ll definitely say, “Wow! Let’s do this again,” when it’s over.